To add, pour stabilizer very slowly through your skimmer while the pump is running. Do not backwash the filter for 5 days; if you need to vacuum or backwash, do that first. The stabilizer will dissolve under pressure in your filter.
Usually you will need to add another small dose of stabilizer towards the end of July. Shock is liquid or granular chlorine. You should add one gallon or one pound of shock per 10, gallons of pool water every week to two weeks. During hot weather or frequent use, you may need to shock more frequently. Low chlorine levels often cause green or hazy water, so if your water looks a little cloudy and you haven't shocked in a while, adding shock is the first step.
It is always best to shock the pool in the evening, when the sun if off the water. If not, the sun will suck it out as fast as you add it. You should use chlorine tabs in conjunction with shock. The slow dissolve tabs hold a chlorine residual in the water. Tabs alone, however, will not provide sufficient chlorination for a pool. The most common cause of staining is metals in your water see question 4.
This is especially likely if you have well water or a heater. If they are present in your water, we will give you a product that removes metals and staining from pools. If the staining is due to other causes, our product Stain Out will quickly and easily remove it. Wait about 20 minutes, and you are free to swim.
We suggest adding algaecide, Super Erace, and shock at night, after everyone is out of the pool. It is safe to swim again the next day. We recommend running the filter 8 to 10 hours a day, and running it continuously if the water is not clear. Make sure the filter is running when you add chemicals. Backwash your sand filter once the pressure gauge reads 8 to 10 psi above normal when it reaches 20 to 25 psi. Bump your DE filter once the pressure gauge reads 8 to 10 psi above normal when it reaches 20 to 25 psi.
If the water pressure back to your pool does not improve, take apart the filter, clean the fingers or grids with a solution, and add fresh DE powder. Replace the cartridge of a cartridge filter once a solution no longer adequately cleans it. Hide Bar. Now I have two problems. After shocking the pool in the evening, we are able to maintain a free chlorine reading of about 4 ppm overnight. I go home at lunch and bring some water back to work with me to test, and verify that the free and total chlorine are about 4.
But, by the time I get home in the evening the chlorine has dropped to nothing. We even added some tablets to our skimmer basket this is not our normal practice just to make sure it wasn't the chlorinator. In past seasons, if we loaded our chlorinator up, even at a low setting, it would over chlorinate the pool big time.
So we would always keep about two tablets in and this would last 3 or 4 days, even in hot weather. It's still cool temp is about 65 so why are the tablets not working? Is it time to load the chlorinator up?
Our pH is now dropping below acceptable range too. The other question is our stabilizer level. When using the drop turbidity test, results indicate that level is too high and we have been able to get it down to , with partial water changes.
However, if I test with test strips, they indicate that there is no stabilizer. It doesn't change color at all. All other parameters on the test strip are very close to what I get with a kit, or here at work. If there really was not stabilizer, this would explain the chlorine not lasting right? But I thought the drop turbidity test was most accurate. A good rule of thumb is to keep your sanitizer levels at round 7. So, doing the quick math, if your pool conditioner is 50 ppm, you should shoot for free chlorine levels between 3 ppm and 4 ppm.
You should use about 4 lbs of CYA per 10, gallons of water for every 30 ppm it needs to be raised. Some product instructions vary, though, so be sure to read the label for proper dosage. Most manufacturers say to add your CYA to a bucket of warm water first and others say you can pour it directly into the pool.
I recommend always dissolving it in a bucket of water since it is an acid that can cause skin irritation or pool liner damage. I talked about chlorine lock earlier and this is what can happen if your CYA levels are too high. There is a chemical available called a CYA Reducer but there is still a lot of debate about whether or not it works.
The most reliable way to reduce CYA levels is dilution. That means you will need to drain a portion of your pool water and add fresh water to it. After any of these events, it's a good idea to retest your CYA levels. If you've determined that the levels are too low, go ahead and calculate the amount of CYA you need in order to bring it back above 30 ppm.
Whether managing a commercial or public swimming pool, or one in a backyard, knowing when to add stabilizer to a pool is vital in keeping the water clean and the pool healthy and free of pathogens. What is a pool stabilizer? It is often referred to by several names—chlorine stabilizer, pool conditioner, chlorine pool stabilizer, among others—but basically, it is a chemical additive that functions to stabilize and extend the active life of the chlorine in the pool water.
Pool stabilizers are important to maintain a clean swimming pool. Along with other factors for keeping a swimming pool clean, like pH, total alkalinity, and water hardness, pool stabilizers need to be adequately regulated and tested. They are derived from a chemical compound called cyanuric acid CYA , and come in several forms—granular or liquid, or in chlorine tablets or sticks called trichlor, or shock, called dichlor.
When chlorine and cyanuric acid are combined in shock or tablet form, it is referred to as stabilized chlorine. When exposed to UV rays, chlorine evaporates rapidly. Therefore, CYA specifically acts to inhibit the degradation of chlorine in the water caused by sunlight.
0コメント